The Breitling Navitimer has all the time been a watch you’ll be able to spot from throughout the room. That round slide rule bezel, the intricate but balanced dial – it’s a design that has stood the take a look at of time. Now, Breitling has taken issues up a notch with the brand new Navitimer B19 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, packing probably the most prestigious problems in watchmaking into their flagship mannequin with out sacrificing its tool-watch soul.
Final 12 months, Breitling launched their in-house B19 perpetual calendar chronograph motion, however solely in stable gold fashions with eye-watering $60K value tags. This time, they’re bringing that very same high-end horology to a chrome steel model with a platinum bezel for lower than half the value. At $29,000 on an alligator strap or $29,500 on a metal bracelet, it’s nonetheless an funding, however in comparison with the alternate options from Patek Philippe or Vacheron Constantin – watches that simply hit six figures – it’s probably the most accessible perpetual calendar chronographs from a serious Swiss model.
And let’s speak about that dial. The ice-blue sunburst end appears to be like unimaginable in photographs, shifting between pale blue and silver relying on the sunshine. By some means, Breitling has managed to maintain the perpetual calendar perform readable, which is not any small feat given how a lot data is packed onto the dial. The three subdials multitask, displaying each the calendar and chronograph capabilities, whereas the moonphase at 12 o’clock provides simply the correct quantity of magnificence to an in any other case extremely technical watch.
For many years, perpetual calendar chronographs have been unique to the likes of Patek Philippe, A. Lange & Söhne, and Vacheron Constantin – watches that almost all fans may solely dream of proudly owning. Smaller independents have provided barely extra reasonably priced choices, however nothing fairly as wearable or broadly out there. Breitling moving into this area is an enormous deal. They’ve taken a complication sometimes reserved for costume watches and constructed it into probably the most recognizable pilot’s watches ever. It’s like displaying as much as a black-tie occasion in a wonderfully tailor-made denim swimsuit – surprising, however it works.
Perpetual calendars is usually a ache to reset in the event that they cease working, however Breitling has that lined too. The watch boasts a 96-hour energy reserve, that means it might sit unworn for 4 days earlier than needing any changes. And when it does want tweaking, the discreet corrector pushers on the case make the method easy. At 43mm huge and just below 15mm thick, it’s not a small watch, however the Navitimer has all the time had a method of feeling excellent on the wrist, and this one appears to observe swimsuit.
Now out there by Breitling boutiques and licensed sellers, the Navitimer B19 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is an thrilling evolution of a basic. It stays true to what makes the Navitimer nice whereas including a severe dose of high-end watchmaking. For many who love mechanical complexity however don’t need to quit on a regular basis wearability, this would possibly simply be the proper mix of each.